Back when the Section was called Dining In/Dining Out, when R.W. Apple was alive and eating, and while William Grimes was still writing about food, when Sam Sifton was the Section's editor, and when Molly O'Neal and Ruth Reichl still worked for the paper, the New York Times food section was a thrill to read. Recently, I feel the quality of reporting and the writing has declined. How is that make Melissa Clark can "invent" so many uninspired recipes and why isn't it clear how the Sunday magazine recipes relate to the body of the article?
In the Section's heyday, 2001, Amanda Hesser challenged Daniel Boulud to tackle the american classics: scrambled eggs, a tuna sandwich, and macaroni and cheese. I remember reading this article, and setting about to make these very slow but delicious scrambled eggs. Through this recipe I discovered the amazingness that is high quality butter, like plugra. But also, through this recipe, I uncovered the deliciousness of not-dry eggs.
I have a pretty limited repertoire of quick late night dinners: scrambled eggs and toast, cheese quesadillas, grilled cheese, and slices of pizza. I've been eating scrambled eggs frequently lately. I don't use a strainer or a double boiler, but, somewhere along the way, through very low heat, butter, and a touch of cream, my scrambled eggs have evolved much closer to a custard and far away from most other dry diner eggs. Making them this way and it takes more like 7-10 minutes rather than 3. But that is 7 minutes worthwhile hungry suffering.
No comments:
Post a Comment